The Vintner Out & About
The ‘summer’ isn’t just my favourite time of year because I get to indulge in copious amounts of cricket at Lord’s as England’s international season begins, it is also because during these months we have the pleasure of welcoming many producers and representatives of the wineries we work with across the globe, as part of our Producer Series.
The visits of Kevin Tessieux of Collovray & Terrier are always keenly anticipated by our staff and clients alike. We’ve been working with Collovray since our inception back in 2010 and the fact we’re still listing a host of their wines is not only testament to the extraordinary consistency of their white Burgundy, but also to what a delight they are to work with.
We like to put Kev to work when he’s visiting the UK and we ensured a jam packed diary for his three days here. First stop was a day of tastings in our offices in Parsons Green as part of our Producer Series (see photo above). It was brilliant to taste across the Mâcon, St. Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé appellations, but that wasn’t all Kevin had to offer. Alongside his toothbrush, laptop and other travel essentials he brought over some mature vintages of St. Véran from 2002, 1992, 1988 - captivating.
The wines were in truly remarkable condition, retaining both the freshness and generosity of fruit comparable to wines of half their respective ages. In particular, the 1988 ‘Les Terres Noires’, which (surprisingly to some of you) predates me, showed exemplary fineness, class and elegance with acidity in abundance – what a wine! A perfect example of how important good storage is, and that there is no better storage for a wine than at the Domaine.
It was up with the dawn chorus the next morning as Charlie Stein had arranged the launch of the Rick Stein group’s 2014 White Burgundy in Padstow at lunchtime. Collovray make this stunning expression of Chardonnay and doesn’t it look amazing? Charlie gave Kevin a tour of Padstow and the restaurants that afternoon before an exclusive wine dinner that evening hosted by Charlie, Kevin and Jack Stein (Executive Chef, Rick Stein Restaurants).
Another plane, and back to London. A visit to Cactus Kitchens was calling and Kevin loved visiting their brilliant cookery school as well as the famous Saturday Kitchen studio. We’ve sent him back to France with an episode on iPlayer so he knows were he’s been.
A taxi to deepest East Dulwich next (these travel expenses are really piling up) for a wine dinner with Jamie Younger and Matthew Harris at The Palmerston. Here, Kevin’s Crémant, Mâcon, St. Véran, Pouilly Fuissé and Languedoc Old Vine red were expertly matched to a stunning menu by Matthew Harris, whose cooking really stood out for its poise and elegance. What a way to end the visit on a high!
If you’d like to attend future Producer Series events, please visit this page for information on upcoming tastings.